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Most all the things I know about chokes are all bad with a few exceptions. However, it helps to live in Florida. If you need to have an operational choke, make it a manual variety like the original.  Brackets are readily available and dual pull choke cable reproductions on sale everywhere, but if you don’t need it to be operational, a really clean coat hanger free method we employ is: ONE SMALL DROP of LOCKTITE in each corner of the blade, taking care not to drip into the carburetor… and the choke will not open again.

A story to be told here is that we built a pair of Edelbrock carburetors for an engine builder for an inline Hemi engine that went to a dyno. One had a choke and the secondary carb did not. A few cylinders had raging high temperatures and a long story short; moving the choke plate to the other carb moved the raging temperatures to other cylinders. The problem was solved by using both choke plates and all cylinders had good temperatures. My feeling is that we should leave the choke plates in and that there is no advantage in removing them. I have run the Max Wedge both with and without the choke plate linkage without seeing any difference. BTW, some of these carburetors have VENT tubes that hang out of the air horn that I have seen people put caps over. DON’T do that.

Use the spark plugs as a ‘window into the mind’ of the engine and read them. It is an old wives tale that cold plugs make more power than hot plugs. There is no cold. There is no hot. There is only correct. They should be nice and white but not chalk. The glue around the base of the electrode should not be boiling out and the color should be established with some hard running. Putt-putting around will produce the wrong color entirely. Good old wives tale is to shut down the engine after a hard run and pull the plugs on the return road or get towed back to the pits to check true color.

SO, YOU BE THE DOCTOR! GOOD LUCK TO ALL. I’LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME... COMING UP…removing the throttle blade attaching screws without breaking them off/ tightening the throttle shafts without bushings and without running the risk of binding them up/ seating the blades in the bores/ flattening the warped bases, even NEW bases/ fuel line sizes/ fuel pressure/ fuel filters/ regulators/ pump, regulator, by-pass line locations/ accelerator cable adjustments/maintenance/ fuel and its effect on carburetor metering/fast idle and transfer slot…

ADVANCED AND FULL COMPETITION: Intake side of the head should have a nice flat surface, the manifold should as well, and in the full competition model carburetor section to come, we shall see just how bad the base surface is on even brand new carburetors, and how they will have to be machined flat usually requiring a minimum of .005” to do the dirty deed. Since the throttle shafts will have to be removed at this point we will deal with the loose little buggers at that time, before the cutters work their magic. Obviously, there are a few operations that a skilled machinist (there are a few AMERICAN MACHINE SHOPS left you know) will need to be called on to top this project off.  Stay tuned… CLOAKING