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Carburetion
Carburetion, Page 2
Carburetion, Page 3
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BUT FIRST YOU WILL HAVE TO INSTALL YOUR MAX WEDGE THROTTLE ARMS if that’s your intention to do so. If your carburetors are late Edelbrock, 625/750, they will have Chevy arms, no choice, and they are ugly and the ratio is terrible. If you are lucky enough to have some older Carter 9636 or many other numbers made for Chrysler, the arms will work just fine, or you can remove the arms from any of the older carburetors and transplant them right onto a new shiny Edelbrock, or you can buy brand new reproduction models from myself or A&A (AANDATRANS.COM) or others through Chrysler Power for that great look. SOME MODIFICATION REQUIRED. Feel free to call me. Not a big deal. Works like a champ.

I’ll move on assuming we can all handle this. Once this is done and the accelerator pump arm is installed and adjusted to .500” tip to cover, and the throttle snaps open and closed quickly and accurately, close the blades to zero.

NOW WE NEED TO CHECK AND ADJUST THE THROTTLE BLADE ANGLES:  First, and now that the blades are closed, be reasonably certain that they fit the bores well. If this is an all out racer, we need to make this adjustment absolutely perfect. (Another chapter will be necessary.) If it’s very good or close enough, which it should be, go on to the next step which is:  make up a gauge out of an index card using a protractor marking 0 degrees 5 degrees and 10 degrees on both sides of 0 (see picture) and lay across base holding throttle wide open and observing what the angle of opening is. All carbs that I know of have a 0 degree primary blade specification and that adjustment is just under the idle speed screw. Usually, some grinding is necessary to the new throttle arm you have just installed, but be frugal. DON’T GO PAST ZERO. If you do, you will have to get the welder out. The secondaries are much easier as there is a tab that contacts the body that limits the opening and can easily be bent with pliers.

Since we’re talking about throttle blades, let’s talk about ‘almost’ throttle blades and that would be the weighted air door just over the secondary throttle bores.  For all street driving and most street/strip applications, leave the door alone. For competition only, remove one of the weights and hold on!

MULTIPLE CARBURETOR SYNCHRONIZERS
You can build your own or you can buy one from us. I just don’t know any way around it. There’s just no way to do this job, to put multiple carburetors in sync, without this tool. Anyone who doesn’t want to buy one can borrow a tool from us, just call! With the blades closed, open them to 2 turns. Install the carburetors. New gaskets, carefully tightening the nuts, use washers. Install return springs and spring brackets.

NOW WHAT?  
For the max wedge manifold, install the center stud (don’t forget the silicone), install the bell crank and put a drill bit through the bell crank into the manifold to lock the bell crank in place. Adjust each linkage rod out until it just snaps on the carburetor ball and bell crank ball, but does not influence the carburetor. It should be close. Hook up the fuel lines, turn on the pump, tap the back of the carbs with the handle of a screwdriver while someone observes the inside of the carburetors for internal leaks. Best if another person has control of the pump switch on the ready for some violent signal to kill the switch, at least the first time around! (No smoking please…)
THE REASON I AM SO HUNG UP ON THIS INTERNAL LEAK BUSINESS IS BECAUSE I CAN THINK OF NO MORE DESTRUCTIVE FORCE THAT CAN BE CAUSED BY THE CARBURETOR. YOU SHOULD TAKE THIS VERY SERIOUSLY. IT CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE AND CERTAINLY THE LIFE OF YOUR ENGINE.
Everything well, fire the engine, warm it up and re-tighten the carburetors. Unsnap the linkage arms from the carbs but continue to keep the engine cleaned out. You can clear out one carb at a time. Place the carburetor synchronizer on one carburetor and adjust the idle to some point on the gauge.  Now go from one carb to the other, adjusting the throttle screws until both are exactly the same AND the idle speed is satisfactory. Keep the engine clear and keep the idle speed adjusted. There is a lot of back and forth action but you are in control.  

STEP UP ROD PISTON/SPRING ADJUSTMENT
Now we’re running and this is the final step in the drivability factor. What we are looking for is: with the engine running at idle and in gear, the metering rod piston should be down and NOT jumping or hunting, but the instant vacuum is released (throttle is touched) there is sufficient spring to snatch the piston and rod out of the jet to bring the fuel to flow in the power step. It’s such a fine line. That’s why we move the plate so we are able to actually observe the piston action. The longer it takes to defeat the vacuum the more lethargic the acceleration. This can be accomplished with different tension springs sold by Edelbrock but as I said, rarely will you need any other than the red/orange or pink. Now you may need the pink and have to clip 2 or 3 coils off of it. No problem. However you have to get to where you are going. Just know where you are going. Piston down at idle but not hunting, but instant up when the throttle is cracked!



 

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